CAN THE WRONG FINISH RUIN A WORKBENCH?
Wondering what finish to use on a woodworking bench top? Learn why wax finishes can be a mistake and why a light oil or oil-varnish blend offers better grip, function, and long-term usability.
What sort of finish should you put on the top of your workbench? Woodworkers have been asking that question since the beginning of—well—workbenches.
One old-time recipe calls for a chunk of beeswax the size of a hen’s egg, dissolved to a butter-like consistency in 16 ounces of pure gum turpentine and mixed with an equal amount of linseed oil. You slop that onto your bench, let it soak in for an hour or so, then squeegee off the excess. Your bench will stink for a few days, but once it cures, you can buff it to a nice shine.
Now, I’m not one to contradict old-time wisdom. I’m sure that finish worked well for a lot of folks back then, and I know people who still use it today and swear by it. But I’m not a fan—and not for the reason you might think.
I’m not worried about wax transferring to my project pieces and interfering with a finish. I wax my cast-iron machine tops all the time and have no issues with that.
What I don’t like about a wax finish is that it makes the benchtop too slippery.
Why Slippery Is the Wrong Direction
How slippery is too slippery? In my mind, any amount of slip is a bad idea.
A workbench is a work-holding device. Its most important job is to keep your boards from moving while you cut, chop, trim, and plane. I’m not interested in any finish that makes that job harder.
And while some old-timers did use wax finishes, others went in the opposite direction entirely. Not only did they leave their benchtops bare, they would occasionally rough up the surface using a toothing plane. The surface it leaves behind isn’t pretty, but it grips boards far better than a slick film ever will.
My Preferred Approach
Now, I don’t go that far. I have a beautiful European beech workbench that cost a lot of money, and I want it to look nice.
What I do instead is occasionally sand or plane the surface and apply a light coat of boiled linseed oil. If you want a little more protection, an oil-varnish blend like Danish oil can work well too.
The key is restraint.
Don’t build up a thick film, and definitely stay away from polyurethanes or anything else that might turn your benchtop into a skating rink.
Conclusion
A workbench isn’t furniture—it’s a work-holding tool, and every choice you make should support that job. While wax and heavy film finishes may look appealing, they work against you by letting boards slide when you need them to stay put. A lightly oiled surface strikes the right balance: it protects the wood, looks good, and still grips your work the way a proper bench should.
Happy woodworking!
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